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1 |
Honiton |
Waterloo |
Train 9.57 – 12.24 |
On your marks, get ready..............and he’s off! | |
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Liverpool Street |
Harwich |
Train 13.18 – 14.43 |
Train worked out ok and allowed time for a nice little ride around Harwich to get the feel of the bike. I’d forgotten how clumsy it is when fully laden. Oh well, too late to grumble now, but I did stop to post home a few items that I decided were too much to carry. |
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Harwich |
Esbjerg |
Ferry 17.45 – 13.00 |
Relaxing time on board, but bothered by weight on the bike. Might have to trim kit down even further. |
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2 |
Esbjerg |
Hegnet |
Flat cycling and light rain so made good progress. Tent up, food cooked and all is well. Having been through all my clothes, food and kit 5 or 6 times to work out what to dispense with, I’ve pulled covers off maps, trimmed moustache and posted everything surplus home. I even cut the tissue-like introduction pages from my tiny Gideon’s new testament! | ||
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3 |
Hegnet |
Thisted |
Cycled 154km and arrived here at 8pm. Followed the dune road - not the cycle trail - which must be more than 50km long. Strange not to see the sea for such a long way; it’s hidden by the dunes. It was a pretty cold wind from the northwest, which I was glad to get away from when I turned inland. Am gradually reducing the weight of stuff I’ve brought. Why would anyone bring 680g of salami to Denmark? | ||
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4 |
Thisted |
Hirtshals |
Misjudged my 1:1,500,000 map of Scandinavia: Firstly; how far apart places are and secondly; how small they are. Camped at site and left before the owner showed up. With no ATM handy I had no Danish Krone, so I put 100 Norwegian krone in an envelope and added a note in Norwegian saying, ‘Arrived late, left early, 1 adult with bike, sorry no DK.’ Hoped they assumed I was a stupid Norwegian. I passed a place called Bedsted (means pray place) yesterday – quite fancied a lie down.! | ||
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Hirtshals |
Kristiansand |
Ferry |
Did my best to get to the 12 noon ferry but it was too far and not enough time. Hey ho! Sheltered out of the wind in a nice café and ate an early lunch. Arrived at Hirtshals ferry terminal & booked ticket before realising it was a Fjordline high speed ferry. Leaves 2 hours earlier and is 2 hours faster –will arrive in Kristiansand before Colorline ferry I’d planned to get sets off. (Later) Hooray - I’m in Norway! Arrived safely; campsite is deserted so have tucked myself away around the back. Ann has told me I have a few well wishers back home; so, many thanks to all who have sent greetings and a big thank you to those of you who are sponsoring me. |
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5 |
Kristiansand |
Stave |
Started from Kristiansand and immediately detoured due to accident in tunnel. Followed coastal route, winding in and out which added 20km to 40km section - very scenic! Mandal most southerly town; very nice. Rested over lunch to recoup after strenuous efforts then on to Vigeland, Lyngdale and over mountain (!!) to Dragnesfjorden. Set tent on small spit of land on north side of Drangsfjorden east of Tosas; nice place to camp. Very fine. Sunshine, shorts, and T- shirt weather, but cold wind. Hilly.
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6 |
Stave |
Eigersund |
Hard work on the main coast road. Route 44 not exactly a leisure cycle trail - didn't see many other cyclists and certainly none with a load. Climbed 275m, on switch back road then down to sea level again to climb again, & again (I lost count). I think coming down is the worst - all that potential energy lost by braking to avoid sliding off. By the time I got to Egersund I could hardly stand. Nice campsite beside the river though. Thankfully meant I was soon revived. Can’t believe the weather is still so fine and sunny. | ||
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7 |
Eigersund Mekjarvik Kai |
Stavanger Mekjarvik Kai |
Got a reasonable start today and found the road much more what I’d expected - reasonably flat with some nice dunes and beaches in places. Lots of other cyclists out today; couldn't work it out until the 3rd supermarket I visited was closed. Remember the good old days of 1/2 day closing? Made it to Stavanger by 2pm so sat on a beach and had a fish. | ||
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Skudeneshavn |
Ferry |
Ferry to Skudeneshavn, cuts through small skerries and calls briefly at Kvitoy on the way. Pancake and coffee on board to remind me of family holidays. |
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8 |
Karmøy |
Buavåg |
Near Buavåg Summer 2009! (Note from Ann; this place has many happy memories as we’ve holidayed here as a family. Perhaps this picture will give you a clue as to why I’m happy to let Roger go off on his own this year!)
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Buavåg |
Langevåg |
Ferry |
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Langevåg |
Stord | ||
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9 |
Stord |
Sandvikvåg | |||
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Sandvikvåg |
Halhjem |
Ferry | |
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Halhjem |
Ostereidet |
On Thursday evening I cycled up Karmøy from Skudeneshavn and managed to get to Haroldshaugen, where Harold Håfagre (Harold the Fairhair 850 - 933) signed a treaty unifying the various regions of the country to make him king. It was sad to be there alone as this is the place where our recent family holidays have started and finished, but the sunset was as spectacular as usual.
Yesterday I set out early for the ferry crossing from Bauvåg, the fjord near where we holidayed last year. The weather was still really fine though my nose is now sore from wind and sun burn (shouldn't have such a large conk!) On crossing the bridge into Stord I briefly saw the dorsal fin of a porpoise in the water below. I followed the western side of Stord to Sagvåg and Fitjar and made a second ferry crossing, which in hindsight was a mistake as there wasn't a camp site until the otherside of Bergen; meaning I clocked up a massive 188km on the day and only arrived at Bergen Camping after 11pm, to find there was only a small patch of grass on which to pitch a tent as the site has been taken over for the construction of a housing estate. I also managed to pick up puncture no 4.
Today was just a short trip, 40km, to Ostereidet where I have spent the afternoon relaxing with my lovely Norwegian friends. I followed the old coastal road which takes in some lovely fjords and inlets. Beautiful.
Staying with our lovely friends the Eides. What a treat!
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10 |
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Ostereidet |
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Today I visited the world’s most northerly beech forest near Seim with my Norwegian hosts. It’s a very small remnant of what must have been a much more extensive beech woodland on the richer fertile soils of the fjord lowlands; long since cleared to farm land in Nord Hordaland. The information suggests that it has been there for the last 1000-1500 years. The trees themselves, which were just coming into leaf, are fairly even aged and unlikely to be older than 100yrs, including the few solitary beech trees in the surrounding fields.
During the afternoon I visited my old friends Solveg and Oddvar. Oddvar must have the flashiest garage in Nord Hordaland; with large flat screen TV, music system and 2 or 3 tractors to play with! | |
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11 |
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Ostereidet |
National Day |
Norwegian National Day Worlds most northerly beech forest
I started the day at church and joined the large procession to the local memorial. I hadn't realised previously, but Norwegian Independence (from Denmark, Sweden) is also the day when those who died in the second world war, during the German occupation, are remembered. The day is celebrated by local communities and is full of colour, national costume, lots of national songs, fun, games, special food and good cheer. I don't remember much of the day from my year in Norway in 1981 so it was good to join with friends who were willing to include me in their celebration - it was a wonderful privilege.
It turns out that last Thursdays shop closure was a holiday due to Ascension Day (not half day closing) and next Monday is Pentecost day 2, another holiday! Ever wondered where the word Whitsun comes from? Very old form of White Sunday, which if you say it with a slight Norwegian accent is still the same today.
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12 |
Ostereidet |
Lindås |
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Click here for details of sponsorship I left the Eide family this morning after a wonderful time. Tusen takk alle sammen. The weather is warm and sunny again so cycling up through Lindaas was great; lots of amazing landscapes so stopping all the time for photos. Ferry at Leirvaag again reminded me of family holidays and pollack fishing. Then on up through Eidsfjorden to Rutledalen was amazing - the sun set at 5.25pm behind the 722m mountain with waterfalls cascading several hundred metres down the dark rock face. Another ferry across the Famous Sognefjord and I'm now, at 9pm, in a (not yet open) campsite in full sun in the mountains beside a lake. It was strange crossing the 2 fjords and knowing that by not turning inland I was missing out on the fjord holidays that most people visit Norway for. Still, this time the adventure is northward. I did however so enjoy the ferry crossings that I'm going to change my plans and in island hopping. It might turn out to be a good choice as it keeps me well away from still snowbound mountain routes. Anyone who suggests ferry trips with coffee and pancakes is cheating will get it!! The ferry crossings only cost eight and twenty krone (£3.00). Ever wondered why there were four and twenty blackbirds baked in a pie? Well the Norwegian counting system at least explains the numbers - can't help with all the other questions that come to mind! Covered 97km today. | |
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Sløvåg |
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Lindås beech forest |
Leirvåg | ||
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Leirvåg |
Sløvåg |
Ferry | |
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Sløvåg |
Rutledalen | ||
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13 |
Rutledalen |
Rysjedalsvika
Førde |
Ferry |
Bright sunshine all day again - I'm sure to pay for it soon. Thanks for support from others who suffer from large nose problems - what I can't quite believe is how, pedalling north with my helmet shading my face, I can still get a red hooter! I had a great lesson in price negotiation this morning. As I left the campsite this morning an old lady appeared, as if by magic, in her hand were a couple of objects which I reckoned were cash and receipts. So I whipped out a 100kr bill and waited on the reckoning (1 adult, 1 bike, 1 shower, 1 night). Having spotted the money she said 'Oh you have a 100 bill'; which I then handed over and awaited the change. This concluded the transaction for her however and my lesson was over…….. Cute! I spotted that yesterday’s plan of island hopping wasn't going to work as one section of ferries no longer run, so what followed was a hard days cycling with lots of climbing. After completing 100km today I've pitched up at a site that says ‘No Tents’; I need some food and a rest. I’m beside a lake in the hills with snow topped mountains all around. Total 102km | |
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14 |
Førde |
Jølster |
What an amazing cycling day. Despite being amongst really high mountains the roads were mostly level and relatively quiet, following lakes and fjords. The landscape is fantastically dramatic - all day I've been surrounded by snow capped mountains. The forests, now only reaching part way up, are becoming more birch than pine. This whole region is predominantly pine/birch forest with areas of better soil being cleared after the war and planted with spruce. The spruce is now mature, so quite extensive areas of clearfelling are taking place. Unsuprisingly there is some desire to restore some areas to natural species mix as some of the spruce is pretty out of keeping. Having said the morning was flat, the afternoon had two interesting challenges: a 285m climb and a 2.8km tunnel, more than twice as long as my last longest. The Norge Highway Agency website for Tunnel Cycling (yes seriously) give it a ‘caution’ rating. Having opted initially to take the bus, I spotted that traffic through the tunnel only coincided with the ferry every 1/2hr. So in I went and realised immediately that due to road works it was pitch dark and my front light was on glow worm setting and needed new batteries. Once out of the road works the overhead lights were good and there was a slight breeze blowing towards me that kept the air clear (holding your breath for 2km is not an option). The sound of other vehicles in a tunnel is terrifying and oncoming vehicles sound like they are behind you. I had just relaxed after facing the last car towards the end me the tunnel when there was a terrible sound - but no vehicle! It turned out to be the turbine blowing clean air. Frightened! Still on a positive note my price negotiation tactics for last night take some beating. I'd pitched up on a site that quite clearly said no tents - but my legs were tired and I needed some food. Unlike the old lady the day before I could see the owner was about and likely to confront me. I headed for the WC - locked, so opted for the shower - no lights or power; so stripped off and propped the door open for the light and was part way through a cold shower when... you've guessed it the owner chose that moment to make his challenge. Let’s say it takes some bottle to confront a naked man in a cold shower and I wasn't in a position to pull out 100Nk. He was so embarrassed I didn’t see him again and had to leave a note 'naked man with tent 1 night' (not really) with my payment this morning. I wouldn't recommend it for a Tesco checkout but in the right setting it works! The campsite tonight is great; it’s one of those with a street kitchen and they are offering me free coffee. Tomorrow I'm going to take an easy ride into Alesund and take a day looking round. I've read that the architecture is quite distinctive with some interesting detailing.
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15 |
Jølster |
Volda |
Before leaving the central mountains and returning to the coastal route I opted for a tough climb on a ‘summer only’ gravel track, via some mountain cabins (hytta). Whilst the choice was a fine one for scenery and lack of traffic, traveling at 5km per hour on switch-back gravel tracks with a heavy load is exhausting for long periods. Took the ferry crossing over Storfjorden (literally means the large fjord) at a cost of seven and twenty; if the way of counting in Norwegian is confusing this sounds like shoe-o-shoer; to which I believe the only appropriate response is 'You what?' Taking photographs is so disappointing in Norway; the landscape is just too big - then you turn around and there is even more behind you. I start every day with a series of ‘wow’ photographs and by the end of the day I realise that I'm probably missing amazing views just because of their sheer abundance. I’m now in Aalesund; a long thin peninsula of land with other islands and peninsulars surrounding it. In 1904 a massive fire destroyed the town, which was then rebuilt in the Art Nouveau style with turrets and towers detailing the street corners. The integrity has been well kept with new buildings reflecting the old. I did 64km today - hard work. I’m going to try to get an early night – this infernal daylight is stopping me from sleeping. Still, all part of the experience! | ||
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16 |
Volda |
Vestnes/Molde |
Worlds most northerly yew Molde And then the weather became more typical for Norway - rain with steely dark clouds all around and the occasional ray of hope. Thankfully I managed to keep reasonably warm and dry, but the camera wasn't out much in the morning due to poor visibility rather than risk of damage. When the fog lifts in Norway I love the mood resulting from the incredible range of greys. Before leaving Aalesund I climbed part way up a local hill to get a view over the city. Three ferry crossings today with lovely heathland island coastline to cycle round. I covered 97km today, mostly on the level. I’ve decided to take a slight detour tomorrow and pick up the Atlantic coast road (voted by Norwegians as the construction of the 20th century); more then. | ||
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17 |
Vestnes/Molde |
Kristiansund/Edø ya |
Worlds most northerly holly Bremsnes in Averøy Pinsedag 1 (Holy Spirit Day) and everything is closed, so much so that everything actually closed yesterday at 4pm - 8 minutes before I arrived at a suitable shop. Thankfully the lad who was locking up took pity and let me buy some food - much to the annoyance of his boss because it gave a green light for everybody else who'd forgotten it was early closing to keep coming in. People have been getting friendlier the more north I travel. Yesterday I got several smiles and the thumbs up from other cyclists, and I had a long chat with a Norwegian guy which was great. Today I cycled the Atlantic Coast Road, which is a very impressive 8274m of road bridge and causeway between small skerries and was completed in 1989 at a cost of about £12M. It is impressive but I've seen much more spectacular bridges already on my trip (Stord or Karmoy). My vote for construction of the 20th century though would have to go to one of the tunnels; they are scarily impressive. Having got to the end of the route I turned up at the ferry terminal in Bremsnes to cross to Kristiansund only to fine it was closed due to a new tunnel having opened. However, when I showed up at the tunnel entrance it was obvious that this one was not for cyclists - nearly 6km long and 300m deep with 1in10 gradients down and up. It would take me forever just to climb out. Having approached the bomstasjon I managed to ascertain there were no buses until Tuesday but was told it was just possible that I might get a taxi out on Sunday! I made my way back to the bus shelter to consider my options. 1) Use my credit card and pay for a taxi. 2) Find a campsite and hole up for two days until the buses start up again. 3) Pray for a miracle. Being a man of faith I of course went with 3, but then switched to considering 1 or 2. Whilst still in the process of giving the problem due consideration the toll man coming on shift pulled up and offered me and the bike a lift for free! I had only a 10min wait - amazing! 136km today. | ||
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18 |
Kristiansund/Edø ya |
Trondheim |
Worlds most northerly oak Edøya, Smøla Last night I wild camped just across the Edøyafjorden where the world’s most Northerly oak is reputed to grow. It’s not very surprising that there are so many of the world’s most northerly tree species in this area as it is a series of small islands warmed by the gulf stream. In fact it was hard to spot the snow covered mountains that have been so typical of the last days. Edøya is one of over 5800 islands and reefs associated with the main island of Smøla. Wild camping is harder here than I thought it would be. Everywhere is either fjord, mountain, rock or a heathy mire (myr) - I opted for the latter. This morning I passed within a short distance of where Keiko, the killer whale from the film Free Willy, died of pneumonia and is buried. I'm now just short of Trondheim and plan to take a leisurely trip into the city tomorrow. Those of you who are interested in numbers will be interested in the Norwegian way of telling the time. All is well with the 24hr clock, but the problem comes with 1/2 hours on the am/pm clock. Instead of half past the hour, Norwegians say half to the hour. For example, 9.30am is half ten in the morning (got it?). But it gets ever more complicated - they then would say it is ten or five before or after the half hour. E.g. 3.40pm is ten over half four after mid day, or 7.25pm is five before half eight in the evening. So not only are you likely not to understand the price of your train fare, you also stand a really good chance of turning up at the wrong time! (Which is probably why the 24hr clock is used for travel times.)148km today. | ||
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19 |
REST |
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Click here for details of sponsorship
Today I had a long lie in and a leisurely breakfast. Everything has dried out after a soaking yesterday. I hadn't chosen the best spot for a day off - I'm not keen on camp sites on the outskirts of a city, so packed up to explore Norway’s 3rd largest city, Trondheim (which is about 1/3 of my trip up Norway). Originally named Nidaros (town by the estuary) it became known as Trondheim (home of the Trønder) in the late middle ages. The cathedral was impressive; the most northerly in the world and the largest in Scandinavia, is where coronations take place in Norway. Work on the cathedral started in 1070 and was finished sometime around 1300. The lack of handlebar moustaches has been disappointing - I've seen 2 on the way up, but none today. I have now crossed the fjord and am wild camping in the hills near Leksvik (worlds most northerly ash), brrr its cold! I had an easy cycle of 48km today. | |
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20 |
Trondheim |
Malm |
Worlds most northerly Ash Frosta and Leksvik: Nord-Trøndelag It’s been a fine day today. Up until today the cycling pattern goes - cycle along the edge of a fjord until I reach the head where there is a small village, follow a river along some fields until the river starts cascading, then climb on a steep, sometimes switchback, road until I reach the mountain pass where there are a few trees, some hytta (wooden cabins) and still a bit of snow; and then the pattern is reversed. Today however the alignment of the glaciers has left really long gouged out lengths, with little in the way of a climb between the sections. My excitement of the day also became a double frustration - I passed from one map to the next (now Norway North) great! Except those excellent Austrian cartographers, Freytag & Berndt, as well as using some obscure place names, have printed this map lengthways on both sides so it will take twice as long to complete. The last one was printed both sides widthways. Also, in switching maps I suddenly seemed to slow down and eventually stopped for a breather to figure out where I was – and discovered those wonderful chaps have also switched scales from 1:250k to 1:400k. No wonder it seemed slower! Still they'd plotted the campsite correctly, which the local tourist information had omitted. I'm about 25km south of Namsos; a place I was excited to learn has Boreal Rain Forest. When I looked up the locations of Boreal Rain Forest elsewhere I found out that, whilst not common, it wasn't as rare as I'd expected and includes locations in western Ireland and Scotland. Basically it's the native forest type for the area and it rains like stink! Oh joy! Thinking back to the tunnel incident into Kristiansund the other day there were two further things that amused me. The first was that at the lowest point of the tunnel some arty blue lighting had been installed which had the same effect as that which is used in public WC's to discourage drug users - maybe an analogy with reaching the bottom? The second thing was that the construction of the tunnel had been delayed by one year, 'due to the wrong line of rock'. A bit of a limp excuse if you ask me, but what else is there to blame? The weather? 109km. | ||
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